So back to Imsouane we go, we need to settle for while and charge our batteries! Jean-Loup is here and could do with our company. The campsite is almost empty but not quite. The wind has been blowing but even that is dying down. It's time to go surfing and pick up the pieces from where I left off over 2 weeks ago. It had been of mixed blessings. Several good trouncings had left me a little deflated, to say the least. So I was keen to make up for it this time. And make up for it I did, with my trusty team Ted photographer to record the events, amongst her many talents, Krysia takes a fine surf photograph.
Hit that bottom turn old man, just like you used to in the old days! An elephant never forgets.!
Wave sequences as well. Now that's a rare honour, I've never seen such footage of my surfing skills, from take off to kicking out. Each shot worthy on it's own. Well done that camera women.
Nice wave Ted, even if I say it myself! No how about another one? As you might have guessed, this blog is about surfing and if you are not interested, you probably have changed site anyway. If you haven't and can take some more, this blog is about me finding my feet after many years of sitting on my backside, well, in surfing terms that is.
So what happened? I stopped surfing in the mid to late 80's as children arrived and water pollution became insufferable. Crowds as well became an issue so between that and the human waste in the water, moving on to being a Dad was easy. I had the time and the inclination to be a family chap and hey, lets be honest, surfing and families? I'm out the back kids, there's poop everywhere and people are coming down with strange diseases. No, it was family camping in the hills and life in Holts Field for us. And it was a brilliant time. Mountain streams and pools, babes in arms.
Then, in the early 90's, we took our young family to Portugal for two consecutive winters and there, I tried to recall my surfy skills. No luck really, winter waves, sloppy muscles and still a family to be with. There goes Dad, whizzing by on a Canary current? No, it was not to be.
Not until I started to come back here to Imsouane did I find the fear inside and let it loose. Fear?? what are you talking about, fear of what? Well I'm working on that and it's for another time but right now, the fear of being to old and unfit to cope with these Atlantic rollers is the main issue and in this last two weeks, I've managed to find what I had when I was young. My surf legs, and they still work.
So with Krysia's keen camera eye watching my every wave, she manages to capture the evidence. 'You can still stand up old man,
I told you so'
She's right, I just needed to find some sea muscles and most important of all, the right attitude in my mind. Also, of great importance, was my body posture. Hunched over, head down when paddling. Not good enough.
Straighten that spine, head up and go catch a wave. That's the spirit.
Board the right way around now? No clever stuff!
Almost look agile, it feels good to surf well again and also looks good on film! My team photographer is doing me the world of good when it comes to boosting my confidence.
Out on my own, waves for the taking at my favorite break called, The Oued. Straight out in front of the campsite, never many people, no current. Just a little left all to myself. Well, not quite, there are a few locals who like the atmosphere here too. I'll put them
in another blog. This one is just for me. getting back to where I came from. A wild young surfy boy who's passion for surfing was interrupted by life. I've found him again for
now and it feels good.
This is a blog of Ted surfing in Imsouane, 35 years after the first visit! Krysia and Ted and we are still here!!
Hit that bottom turn old man, just like you used to in the old days! An elephant never forgets.!
Wave sequences as well. Now that's a rare honour, I've never seen such footage of my surfing skills, from take off to kicking out. Each shot worthy on it's own. Well done that camera women.
Nice wave Ted, even if I say it myself! No how about another one? As you might have guessed, this blog is about surfing and if you are not interested, you probably have changed site anyway. If you haven't and can take some more, this blog is about me finding my feet after many years of sitting on my backside, well, in surfing terms that is.
So what happened? I stopped surfing in the mid to late 80's as children arrived and water pollution became insufferable. Crowds as well became an issue so between that and the human waste in the water, moving on to being a Dad was easy. I had the time and the inclination to be a family chap and hey, lets be honest, surfing and families? I'm out the back kids, there's poop everywhere and people are coming down with strange diseases. No, it was family camping in the hills and life in Holts Field for us. And it was a brilliant time. Mountain streams and pools, babes in arms.
Then, in the early 90's, we took our young family to Portugal for two consecutive winters and there, I tried to recall my surfy skills. No luck really, winter waves, sloppy muscles and still a family to be with. There goes Dad, whizzing by on a Canary current? No, it was not to be.
Not until I started to come back here to Imsouane did I find the fear inside and let it loose. Fear?? what are you talking about, fear of what? Well I'm working on that and it's for another time but right now, the fear of being to old and unfit to cope with these Atlantic rollers is the main issue and in this last two weeks, I've managed to find what I had when I was young. My surf legs, and they still work.
So with Krysia's keen camera eye watching my every wave, she manages to capture the evidence. 'You can still stand up old man,
I told you so'
She's right, I just needed to find some sea muscles and most important of all, the right attitude in my mind. Also, of great importance, was my body posture. Hunched over, head down when paddling. Not good enough.
Straighten that spine, head up and go catch a wave. That's the spirit.
Board the right way around now? No clever stuff!
Almost look agile, it feels good to surf well again and also looks good on film! My team photographer is doing me the world of good when it comes to boosting my confidence.
Out on my own, waves for the taking at my favorite break called, The Oued. Straight out in front of the campsite, never many people, no current. Just a little left all to myself. Well, not quite, there are a few locals who like the atmosphere here too. I'll put them
in another blog. This one is just for me. getting back to where I came from. A wild young surfy boy who's passion for surfing was interrupted by life. I've found him again for
now and it feels good.
This is a blog of Ted surfing in Imsouane, 35 years after the first visit! Krysia and Ted and we are still here!!
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