Keeping cool in Tafraout

Our campsite amongst the palm trees looks idyllic, for the most part it is but there are certain problems that must be dealt with. Heat, water, flies and mosquitoes are the main contenders, so I'll deal with them in turn.
Heat: the sun is very hot here as is the air so avoiding high temperatures is difficult. What you do during the day becomes the issue, activity increases discomfort so being still and in the shade is important. The awning helps but also insulates so any air movement is to be encouraged. The wind, although hot, does at times blow with force so covering the sides keeps out the sun but keeps in the heat!! In the van, all silver reflectors are up and both fans run throughout the day. all doors are opened as long as they are not in the sunshine! Yes, this is an endurance test and totally self imposed so no sympathy being sought.
We go out at the end of the day, first for a walk around the palmerie as the evening shadows grow.

The scenery is stunning here, rock formations and palm trees, views of the town and mountains, all accentuated by the setting sun. Keeping covered from the sun and yet cool enough to walk is achieved by copying the locals, loose and flowing garments.

The town is nestled in this basin, surrounded on all sides by high mountains. Day time in town is adjusting to the coming summer, it's quiet. At sunset, the locals pour out onto the streets and parks. A hive of activity, young and old congregate and converse as the day cools down, it's a fine sight. We wander too amongst the crowds of cheerful folk, all dresses up to impress and attract. The local dress for women here is black with swirling gold braided edging, wrapped from head to toe, only uncovering their faces to smile, talk and flirt. Traditional dress in a modern world. So beautiful and worn by all ages.

This is a Berber town and very proud of it.


As we continue our walk, we come across little 'cairns' to mark the paths. Their use in this weather is unclear but we have been here in heavy rain and mist, Christmas 2009, dressed in full waterproofs. Like the mountains of Wales, pathways are marked to help the traveller safely get from a to b.

Looking through to the Ameln valley as the sun goes down, accentuates the steep sides to the surrounding mountains. Villages line the base of these mountains no doubt due to the availability of water, which brings me on to the next problem.
Water: the taps in the campsite are rarely running making showering impossible. We are told that water pressure all over town is bad and the new construction taking place, ironically a swimming baths!, is taking far too much for its own needs!

I think I should set this warrior woman on them so that we could all have a shower and not pong so much. Showering has become twofold. One to keep clean and two, to cool down. Our method is to fill up water bottles on the dribble from the taps, then pour over each other in bathing suits and wait for the delightful feeling of being cold as evaporation does its magic. Brrr, chilly is so nice at 35 deg C.

It's also very humid and threatens to thunder and rain, but nothing comes of it. The setting sun highlights the thundery promise. It does not come. Would it clear the air like back home? Doubt it.

Clapping for joy as the temperature goes down, looking slightly loopy from too much sun, we have made it through the day. In spite of the heat and enduring the biting flies! Yes flies bite here, for moisture apparently, for blood more like it. Means you have to wear long trousers in the heat of the day? What's it like in August??? We will never find out!

To change the whole subject just for a moment, here's a photo of a beautiful cactus. Take our minds off the discomfort challenges of the day and have a breather before talking about the mosquitoes!

Deep breaths now

What can one say about mosquitoes? In Imsouane they bite, itch but are not too much of a problem. Here, they are ferocious, leaving me especially with swelling of worrying proportions. And as for itching, ahhhh. don't scratch, don't scratch! Too late, even in ones sleep, nails find skin and.......... make things worse!!!
Unwittingly, we lie at the back of the van watching the twilight through open doors. Fools, hoards of mosquitoes are creeping in for the night times feast.
Very beautiful though, just with a price!