Wednesday, 26 March 2014

Tamanar Souk and the ipad kid


To start this episode, a couple of fine pieces from our visit to Hassan's on Saturday.


Not completed in time to go on the appropriate blog, one can't hurry an artist!


Well worth waiting for, Aisha, Fatima and Zara are given Krysia's interpretation of their beautiful selves. And Aisha, Mother of the family, a portrait of her own.







Sunday is Souk day in Tamanar, always worth a visit, It's another hot and sunny day and the 30 km motorbike drive is again delightful, especially as it a chance to cool down and it's only 10 am!

We know these roads well now but they still retain a freshness in their stark contrast to what we are used to. Rolling hills as far as the eye can see, dry parched soil covered with the small but mighty Argan tree. Shepherds guarding their goats who scrabble high into these trees, munching on their leaves and nuts. At any moment, we are transported back in time, a scene of simple domesticity, a smile from an ageless face. Tamanar is a Berber town still retaining it's own identity, as it was when we were here in the seventies and still hardly a women to be seen! Which can feel a little strange. Where are all the women? a nice place all the same, friendly folk getting on with their weekly market in the middle of the town. Not a big souk but lively all the same.
It's hot! So our first purchase is a at the mat stall??? A favorite of Krysia's.



Mmm, now this would fit the bike wouldn't it Ted?
I like it but I suppose it's meant for a donkey really! 





                                                  So I'll have this one!!!

                                                  It will fit on the bike,
                                                   no problem.







 On for a bit of lunch at a local fish 'room' ! Tiny little room I should say, Deep fried sardines, bread, two small bowls of something and a coke each for 20 Dhs the lot!!! Moroccan food at its best, with the locals and at their prices.

Maybe the chef is tempted to ask more of us as we're tourists but he does not. He is a young practicing Muslim as is indicated by his beard and clothes. It is himself and Allah he has to answer to. Unlike the next cafe we stopped at for a coffee. An instant with milk and 25 dhs was asked for! I looked at him and said hey, too much. So he grinned and said, 20 dhs. so I paid him and will not return. It's not the money, it's the attitude. It wasn't even a proper coffee.We watched them make it, hot milk served with a sachet of nescafe! All good fun. Communicating.




And now on to the really fun part of our day out, the highlight if you like, in a day of many delights. We decided to rest in the shade of a tree in amongst other locals and just take in our surroundings. Berber town in full Souk day, beggars and merchants side by side. Even Sadie came up and asked for a dirham, well a Sadie lookalike anyway. All people with means give to the less fortunate here, an obligation. No social security here!!
so Krysia gets here magic pad out and starts sketching and very soon, some young lads show interest and start to edge closer. An iPad artist is not a familiar sight in these parts. Soon, people begin to gather and just like the storytellers of these parts, the crowd thickens to see whats going on! soon, I am gently pushed out as Krysia becomes the center of attention. I call out to give her confidence, 'I'm here, keep it up, it's fine, they are really enjoying you drawing of the two lads!' The two lads have eagerly consented to being drawn and stand very still. This is brilliant! We have become the entertainment, just like in Marrakech, Taroudant or any of the squares of fame. Donnez moi un Dirham, I shout, with obvious humour!!






Well done that Krysia, full marks for keeping at it when under pressure, a truly wonderful experience.

and to the images that were made under these demanding conditions? I'll let you see them now!



                                                              I love them

It's already been quite a day but there is a little more to come. The drive home is via a road along the coast which we've done before, always passing this little road which I've been meaning to take for a while now. So we do! The road is tar mac and goes on for miles until it arrives at the coast where it proceeds to plummet down to the seaside, an easy ride for the bike, and there appears to be nothing there!! a dead end!! But quickly we see that there is, tucked away, a small fishing village in a natural harbour! It's quite spectacular in it's isolation!




              And this is where the mat that Krysia bought was carried, very Moroccan !!!


We slowly road back to Imsouane through fields made out of stone!! Well, the farmers had pulled so much out of the ground already but they still seemed to be largely made up of rocks!






Back to the campsite and an evening surf for me while Krysia sits on the beach and draws some more. A perfect end to a rather splendid day.






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