Desert highway to Amtoudi

We had spent a whole day and two nights in Tata at Hiyate's campsite beside the river. Storm clouds had gather and spots of rain were felt but no river appeared apart from the small dammed pools which were here when we arrived. A tranquil place Tata. We took things easy on our 'day off ' !

The sun shone again and it's Wednesday, so off we set at a very good hour and hit the Desert Highway to Amtoudi. 

Some roads come along and disappear behind you leaving no trace. Others are enjoyable and leave you feeling blessed. The road we took from Tata to Amtoudi left us breathless. At Akka, we stopped for supplies, drove just outside town and stopped for a picnic.

There is history for Krysia and I in this desert road. We have tried to use it twice now and on both occasions we have broken down before we could set off !!! The first time, we needed a new radiator which was an ordeal we took on from Amtoudi, a small village 40 kms from the nearest help. A wild motorbike journey with a radiator strapped between us led us on a different path than the road to Tata. We ended up in a garage in Timoulay for a week before our journey could continue and the wind had literally been blown out of our sails when it came to tackling an isolated desert road.

The second time, we broke down in Goulmime, needing a new head gasket. Only finding that out the day we were going to once more tackle the road to Tata. It sees the road to Tata was going to have to wait until this day and with the company of Adam and Riek to share in our ' third time lucky ' attempt on the now elusive desert road.

What a road, some might say the middle of no-where, others, a long drive through sandy, stoney, dry hamada. I thought it to be one of the driving highlights in Morocco. A wild and barren desert with, at times, nothing for as far as they eye could see. At other times, eruptions of weird and wonderful rock formations resembling great backbones of beast long dead. Black and shiny, red and sandy, the landscape and the single track road went on in a straight line to the horizon. Only a couple of vehicles came the other way and when they did, the pace slowed down as one of us pulled over to let the other through. A game of bluff. Busses and lorries held the Ace card, we pulled over. Other vehicles, cars and camper vans, deserved to show some effort at sharing the necessity. Some did and others did not, a display of insensitivity that could possibly lead them to disaster. We are in the desert and I for one, would rather not have a crash out here in this unforgiving landscape.

The road eventually led us to Amtoudi and a completion to a need to return. We had unfinished business here. An Agadir to be visited, no not the town but a grain and weapons store perched high on a hill, a traditional store for safety in these parts but this one is renowned through Morocco as the most well preserved of these now disused and obsolete Agadirs.

It's a fine climb up an old stoney path, the views fantastic. A loud knock on the door and Mohammed, not The Mohammed but one of his many sons! Answers and shows us around the hilltop wonder. Apart from tiny store rooms and small hobbit homes, Bee homes a plenty and watering holes for the swarms, now long dead, take us on a journey back through time.

Views, what views. And Mohammed is the perfect guide, leaving us well alone until we need some direction or information. The best sort of chap.

We follow the path back down to the village. A palmerie at the mouth of a fine gorge at the base of the Anti Atlas. Amtoudi, we made it and we are not broken down! In fact, the engine continues to purr like a kitten. Our journey will carry on.

Watch this space !

Lots of love to all